So 1/72 is a great scale But there is one snag as I see it, and that is when you have to add rivets either because you've sanded them off, or they weren't there in the first place.Any suggestions anyone? And don't say White Glue pinpricks, because they just become.. small blobs
TIA Ron Tighe "If an attack goes very well, then it's probably an ambush"
You can find an article here on LANDSHIPS, in the Modelling Articles section, adressing this very problem.
Suffice it to say, that the best method is also the most time consuming one: slizing rivets from an old kit, and gluing them, one by one, onto the new. It's hard BORING work, but the result is the best.
One product I found at the local craft shop here in Australia that makes good rivets is Micro Beadz, manufactured by Ribtex. They come in a 20g packet that gives you hundreds, or more likely thousands, of rivets. They are not all the same size so you get smaller rivets for 1/72 scale projects and larger ones for 1/35. I drill a small hole at the rivet location, pick up the bead with a pair of tweezers, usually over and over again because they are hard to pick up, place it on the hole and push in. A little cement to hold it in and you're done. I used it on Emhar's 1/72 A7V for the front flap which has rivets for the hinge connection to the body, but none for the hinge connection to the flap (an unusual omission). I don't know if Micro Beadz are available anywhere else except Australia, New Zealand, and Singapore. The only disadvantage is that the colours they come in are bright, metallic ones.
hmmm i belive a company in japan makes 1:72 scale rivits, i belive it is a company called wave, they have a line called "option parts" which is a line of nothing but option parts for mecha aircraft and tank kits for scratch building.
I haven't actually tried this yet for real, only on a piece of scrap styrene as a test, but try using stretched sprue (or 10 thou styrene rod - I couldn't get any, though, hence stretched sprue). Drill holes where you want the rivets using a teeny weeny drill in a pin vice. Push in a short length of the rod/sprue, and apply liquid cement to the back of the sheet - capillary action will draw it through without swamping and marking the front surface. Don't worry about getting the lengths sticking out exactly right as you can trim and sand once they're fastened to even them out.
I'm using tiny ceramic balls which I've got from the used water filter cartridge. Just open the cartridge and separate the coal from these micro balls. You'll have lifetime supply. These balls should be applied in tiny drilled holes. Cheers! G.
hmmm i belive a company in japan makes 1:72 scale rivits, i belive it is a company called wave, they have a line called "option parts" which is a line of nothing but option parts for mecha aircraft and tank kits for scratch building.