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Post Info TOPIC: Spoked wheels questions


Colonel

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Spoked wheels questions
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Basically the dishing strengthens the wheels and makes sure they take transverse loads (or partly transverse ones, with components along the line of the axle) in a predictable way.

George Sturt's lovely book is quoted here - http://www.wheelwrights.org/craft/history-of-the-wheelwrights-craft - and is well worth looking at if you like wood or carts.

and

http://wantage-museum.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/Wheelwrights.pdf

THis has stuff on wheels and dishing too but I have only just found it and have to go before I can explore properly ... http://www.lostcrafts.com/Carriage-Building/Practical-Carriage-Building-Main.html

I'm not quite sure what you mean about the difference between 'conical' and 'dished' - surely all such wheels are basically conical? Perhaps it is an artefact of the spoke shape? Or just bad workmanship/I would be surprised to see spokes that were actually curved, as 'dished' in your sense implies, as they would be bending and therefore undergo worse bending under load and lose compressive strength = risk of runaway buckling failure, rather than taking the load straight along the axis of a straight spoke. Pre-stressing doesn't make sense to me as the hub would just get pushed out even more.

Not sure about why 12/14 spokes, and someone else has my copy of Sturt, but obviously the more spokes the more joints and the more holes cut into the felloes (bits of the rim) and the less room for the joints between the felloes and on the hub. And more spokes too. Costs more.

My very strong instinctive reaction is that 12 is blindingly obviously (OK, well perhaps not obviously!) a better number because it is easy to mark out 12 spokes by geometry. I do no tknow how they did it in fact. But 12 = 3 x 4 and straight off the top of my head I can see how to do it with nothing but a pair of large compasses and a ruler. Draw a triangle, use the compasses to find the centre, then draw a circle on that centre, mark out the lines from the centre through the angles of the triangle to get the first 120 degree arcs, and then twice bisect each arc with the compasses to get the 12 rim/spoke joints. If the felloes are to be identical, too, which surely they have to be for even loading, then that means a minimum of 7 felloes (x 2 holes each). That's one more felloe, 2 more spokes and 5 more joints for 14 rather than 12 spokes.

14 is 2 x 7 and such a pain to mark up that one would have to make up a jig, effectively, so you only have to do it once and then can mark succeeding wheels. This is much more reasonable for artillery of which a lot of identical-ish wheels were produced. And who cares about the cost if the MoD, or its predecessor, is paying?

I stand to be corrected of course!! - and will be very interested. It's something I've been wondering about myself, having been very disenchanted with a couple of kits of Great War artillery which forgot to dish the wheels (amongst many other flaws and omissions).

 



-- Edited by Lothianman on Thursday 7th of February 2013 11:56:06 PM



-- Edited by Lothianman on Friday 8th of February 2013 12:04:48 AM



-- Edited by Lothianman on Friday 8th of February 2013 12:07:20 AM

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Pat


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I've been wondering about these three wooden spoked wheel aspects:

What is the determinating factor for the size of artillery (cannon, limber, ammo wagon) wheels? There seems to be a very common diameter for field guns which is 1300 mm.

Some guns have 14 spoked wheels, some (Japanese) even more, while 12 is standard. More spokes equal more stability in my book, and more wood to grab for the crew while moving the gun, so 14 spokes should be the superior concept. Why were 14 not standard - because it requires more hours to manufacture them?

Last, many Napoleonic and earlier wheels seem to taper, giving the wheel a slightly conical shape. Most seem to have been replaced by perfectly dish-shaped wheels by WW1. What are the advantages of both models?

I'd appreciate your input. Regards, Pat

 

 



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Legend

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Len Trawin in his book on British Light Artillery makes the point that all British light artillery used the same interchangeable wheel size.

Pretty much all artillery wooden wheels have a dish to counteract the side loadings. Dish is only a single part of the set up

of wooden wheels - hollow, strut, bevel and lead are also important. I can pull out some definitions if interested.

Regards,

Charlie



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Legend

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Re spoke numbers, I suggest that certain heavier pieces might benefit from closer-spaced spokes to support the weight better (smaller degree of rotation needed to bring a spoke vertical under the weight).

For size, you would want the largest diameter reasonable, in order to minimise rolling resistance, especially over rutted ground which could trap small wheels; large wheels mean greater weight, however, plus extra material and increased cost - so these are limiting factors on size, as is the increased wheel-weight to handle.

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General

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Just a quick note here.  The number of spokes are usually consistent within a nations artillery service.  For example German Field and Foot Artillery pieces almost always have 12 spokes.  There are a great many wheel types but the number of spokes is consistent.  The British pieces generally also have 12.  French have generally have 14.  Austro-Hungarian have 12.  US Field Artillery have 16. 

R/

Ralph Lovett

 

 



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Ralph Lovett
Pat


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Thank you Gentlemen, some very interesting food for thoughts here.

I must correct myself. After looking at another 500 or so pictures of gun wheels (and wagons, for that matter), I see that virtually all of them have some tapering.

One of the books Ralph kindly linked to shows the making of a wheel in great detail:

http://www.lostcrafts.com/Carriage-Building/wagonwheels.html

However I still see huge differences between a WW1 wheel and, say, a Seven Years War wheel.

These are some strongly tapering wheels:
http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-yoxbnZgZUUE/T1FTaWMrYBI/AAAAAAAAANA/J5gD2MGes2E/s1600/FRENCH+8-pdr+Ordnance+BLOG.jpg
http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-M6kaulxVj8g/T-opGvLykzI/AAAAAAAAAQg/Aq_hk8PLVfU/s1600/Saxony+4-PDR+M1766.jpg
http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-i5jOdS82vxA/Tx6B705yi1I/AAAAAAAAALQ/J6gwqJ8Iqo0/s1600/STRUENSEE+TabVI+BLOG.jpg
http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Canon-IMG_1784-white.jpg?uselang=de

These WW1 guns' wheels hardly show any tapering:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:WWI_Field_Gun_316.JPG
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:SANMMH_-_QF_18_pounder_Mk_II_-_002.jpg
http://www.landships.freeservers.com/jpegs_new/number_19/File0082.jpg
http://www.lovettartillery.com/7,7cm_leichte_Feld_Kanone_1916_.htm

My question is, why are these wheels so different if their purpose, and the towing mode, is virtually identical?

Now for the number of spokes. Ralph explains very clearly why 12 is the standard number. But why then have a different number sometimes at all?

I like TinCanPole's theory that heavier pieces might benefit from closer-spaced spokes to support the weight better. However the 75mm mod1897 field gun had 14 spokes, wheras the 105 mod1913 Schneider had 12, as did the 120mm Schneider export gun, as did many of the 155 and 220 mm howitzers from 1915 on. I'd rather provide a heavier gun with wheels that support the weight better. So I have not yet understood this well.

Re: my other question about the wheel size, quoting TinCanPole again: "For size, you would want the largest diameter reasonable, in order to minimise rolling resistance, especially over rutted ground which could trap small wheels; large wheels mean greater weight, however, plus extra material and increased cost (...)" and weight. That's perfectly reasonable to me, I just wondered why 1300 mm was considered the best compromise. I think the reason lies in an additional factor: Men would have to pull these wheels very often, and the shoulder of a man of average height 100 years ago would be about 1300mm from the ground. That way, the wheel size would ensure the men could exert maximum force on the spoke near the felloe joint.

Does this make any sense to you? Regards, Pat



-- Edited by Pat on Saturday 9th of February 2013 09:04:57 PM

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Colonel

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Very interesting!

Could the difference be down to the advent of single piece metal tyres, shrunk onto the wheel and thereby giving an element of prestressing?

The other possibility is the advent of power tools and mass production with jigs allowing more accurate joints within a budget.

Both would give stronger wheels. Just a gut feeling - and beyond my knowledge ...



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