Hello All. ok so it isn't really a webinar (Although I wish it were perhaps I'll tinker with posting videos as I go along)
Reading through a few threads here lately the idea that the forum has become 'moribund' has surfaced.
To show that it hasen't I've taken the opportunity to show you all what I like to call 'The industrial method of modeling'.I will show everyone here who is feeling like they just can't accomplish all that much that you really can build Rome in a day. I hope also by displaying my progress that I will breathe life into the forum's modeling section once again. I will begin my build this morning at 9am sharp. you are all invited to watch in your own free time. I will go back and answer any questions or show a method, tool, or step again as needed. modelling shouldn't be a burden or an impasse, its a hobby, and at that its a brain engager. I haven't been on a Playstation in 17 months!. I hope what I do here is inspire and show that 1-72 scale modeling is very easy. and in the end you can display pieces that are truly one of a kind works of art and show undeniable craftsmanship.
stay tuned. - Josh
-- Edited by FR73 on Thursday 30th of May 2013 07:50:45 AM
__________________
"General, you have nobly protected your forts. Keep your sword...to have crossed swords with you has been an honor, sir." General der Infantrie, Otto von Emmich
Good morning Ladies and Gentlemen. Today I will go over the kit I will build for you today. This is a new, unopened, MGM Marienwagen WWI German Panzer.
Essentially it is a completely enclosed and armor plated standard Daimler field truck. In modern combat theory, these vehicles would have been employed as armored personnel carriers, coming in as a third wave behind heavies like A7V's and lights such as the LKI and LKII during breakthroughs. Unfortunately this vehicle never saw field use, and essentially became a curiosity of the war. I have built white metal Daimlers of both wheeled and semi tracked varieties, but this is my first time building one of these. I have chosen to do this particular model because A: you just don't see this model built anywhere, and B the amount of flash makes it a challenge. but, with the right tools, and know how, large amounts of flash which daunt most of us I'm sure, are a thing of the past.
Lets begin.
-- Edited by FR73 on Thursday 30th of May 2013 03:20:56 PM
"General, you have nobly protected your forts. Keep your sword...to have crossed swords with you has been an honor, sir." General der Infantrie, Otto von Emmich
The kit consists of 19 individual parts. so it is a not too complicated build. most of the parts will go on the bottom, for the drive train. in this kit you have the option of interior detailing, so we will tinker with that as we go along.
It is very important to look through your kits bag,
se all that resin flash? in it are contained wouldbe missing gems like this axle chain:
Always be sure to count and recount your parts and or figures.
Now we move on to tools.
Here are some tools you could concievably use as you build a model. only ever take out what you think you'll need to avoid becoming cluttered.
They are from left to right clockwise:
1. Brushes 1 wide 1 medium 1 fine
2. Side cutters
3. Sanding film
4. (inside:) thinner Percision knife set
5. Paints For vehicles I do a basic flat grey for tracks, 31 Slate grey for overall color, 87 steel grey for bottom and metal work, 33 black for MG's and 62 leather for interior upholstry.
"General, you have nobly protected your forts. Keep your sword...to have crossed swords with you has been an honor, sir." General der Infantrie, Otto von Emmich
Ok, Now for the hard part: Flash removal. This can get gruesome. You may want to avert your eyes
But first on the subject of safety: Remember Resin dust especially when filing, grinding etc. is toxic if inhaled.
Safety first MUHUHAHAHAHA
Googles are a plus too; Resin loves to fly off in unknown directions.
Alright then, lets start with the grill. Here we find a nasty piece of flash that all you can really do is to take an end cutter and cut off the protrusion.
Now we sand the excess back to the grill.
setting aside the file for a moment, we pick up the sword....
being very careful (I speak from experience) hobby knives are sharp, and it is common sense to cut away from yourself at all times. Now, with a chisel blade carefully sheer off the last of the excess and then sand again to smooth.
Now, etch out the areas between the grill slats.
These sorts of flash are dificult to remove, and sometimes can become a blight on your creation. it is simply a flaw in the molding process that we have no control over. in the end if you can't remove a casting flash like this, the least you can do is make it less obvious.
We'll work in this area more a little later.
Now, pick out any flash than can be removed piecemeal.
Sand out all remaining noticeable flash around doors, openings, etc.
I want to point out to watch for tiny fractures and cracks especially in resin kits; if you don't catch them and shore them up with superglue, the consequences could be dire.
Be especially careful where the area to be cut converges on a narrow area on a part. this is where resin earns it reputation as being extremely brittle even for the most experienced modeler. Now, if you break a part, don't panic. gather a much of the orginal piece as possible, and carefully glue it back together, making sure to dry fit each part you find before reassmbly. Be especially mindful of breakages of curved parts such as tracks. straight segements of track are easily duplicated, but sometimes curves, with their detailed casting, are irreplaceable.
Here we see an example of what can happen if your not careful.
Reassembly of the track area.
Certain instances of flash removal can cause holes:
To repair these types of damaged parts, plasticard works extremely well. Simply cut out the size and shape you need and glue in place. finish with a Miliput smear afterwards.
Miliput comes in very handy in these instances, and is versitile for filling gaps created by breakage, or replacing areas that didn't quite mold right. Like here:
But again always look in the bag, the parts may be there!
For larger areas, careful yet brute force may be excersised. Do becareful before cutting in these areas to make out any discernable detail with the naked eye, and well not to remove this area accidentially.
always sand when you finish an area. it will make life easier when it comes time to dry fit or glue.
Large areas of flash such this casting block can be removed with a simple trip to your garage:
(Again make sure to use you mask, as grinding will create a large amount of resin dust DO NOT BREATHE THIS!)
After grinding, This is the finished result:
Now trim all remaining flash from your parts and you are set.
any questions so far?
-- Edited by FR73 on Thursday 30th of May 2013 07:23:25 PM
-- Edited by FR73 on Thursday 30th of May 2013 07:25:55 PM
-- Edited by FR73 on Thursday 30th of May 2013 07:28:57 PM
"General, you have nobly protected your forts. Keep your sword...to have crossed swords with you has been an honor, sir." General der Infantrie, Otto von Emmich
On first look inside the kit we find: The kit in a bag with a ghastly amount of flash, and the usual instruction from MGM, simple pictures of the model taken from many sides to illustrate more or less where parts go.
"General, you have nobly protected your forts. Keep your sword...to have crossed swords with you has been an honor, sir." General der Infantrie, Otto von Emmich
There you go Diego, now your thinking. Peter would be proud. Kamil, thats the spirit. You see everyone? This did motivate people to start posting build threads again!! but why should I stop now? lets finish the model, and add another piece to the Model X. Armeekorps.
So back to work. I've trimmed away most of the flash and glued as much together as is allowable at this step.
At this stage I've added a few inner details: a bench and a spare wheel from one of my other Daimlers I built back in 2010.
-- Edited by FR73 on Friday 31st of May 2013 04:18:43 AM
-- Edited by FR73 on Friday 31st of May 2013 04:24:11 AM
"General, you have nobly protected your forts. Keep your sword...to have crossed swords with you has been an honor, sir." General der Infantrie, Otto von Emmich
Thank you all for your comments and praise so far. I hope I am teaching everyone here the ins and outs of resin kit building.
Any questions so far?
Greetings, Josh
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"General, you have nobly protected your forts. Keep your sword...to have crossed swords with you has been an honor, sir." General der Infantrie, Otto von Emmich
Last night after the last post I milliputed the trouble areas, and will sand them a little later today. It is important to sand off any excess, (as visible on the track) leave just enough so that there is not too much, Otherwise too much and the part will become mishapend, too little and will not hold together.
The next step will be industrialized priming. Posts will be rather sporadic over the weekend as I will be working. But, I will update my progress as I go along and always check back to read comments and answer questions.
Ah, I almost forgot. I want to bounce ideas around with everyone here about making headlamps for this model I've seen several pics on the web and in the archived pages from the orginal Landships site showing these and a hand crank. The crank is easy just not sure where it would go in the front.what are some thoughts all of you may have about these two details. Remember it is details that make the model truly unique, and no two are alike.
Greetings, Josh
-- Edited by FR73 on Saturday 1st of June 2013 08:45:02 AM
"General, you have nobly protected your forts. Keep your sword...to have crossed swords with you has been an honor, sir." General der Infantrie, Otto von Emmich
Very impressive work! Special award to have chosen such a model. It's a very interesting model but both moulding and details look crude. A+ Gilles(Lostiznaos)
Yes, you don't see this one too often, and from my understanding MGM is always improving the molding and details with every kit; or it seems that way.
Thanks for your post
Greetings, Josh.
__________________
"General, you have nobly protected your forts. Keep your sword...to have crossed swords with you has been an honor, sir." General der Infantrie, Otto von Emmich
"General, you have nobly protected your forts. Keep your sword...to have crossed swords with you has been an honor, sir." General der Infantrie, Otto von Emmich
Using a old style spray can gun (I say old because over here in the states at least, aerosol spray cans are now being manufatured with larger buttons that no longer fit these sorts of guns.)
We apply a uniform coat of primer to the model.
Once one half is finished flip it over and prime the other side.
After Priming allow to dry for a few hours, you are now ready to paint.
"General, you have nobly protected your forts. Keep your sword...to have crossed swords with you has been an honor, sir." General der Infantrie, Otto von Emmich
Ok, So now that a good coat of Fieldgrey (Humbrol Matte 31 Slate Grey) has been applied, it is a good base coat for this question: Do you want to paint it Lozenge, Dapple, or factory fieldgrey?
I'll let you guys pick one! and to make it interesting, any scheme picked will be matched on my A7V's. (Am getting tired of factory fieldgrey paint jobs... hint hint)
Gretings, Josh
-- Edited by FR73 on Monday 10th of June 2013 06:25:47 AM
"General, you have nobly protected your forts. Keep your sword...to have crossed swords with you has been an honor, sir." General der Infantrie, Otto von Emmich
Very good suggestions, I think I might have to pick dappled marienwagens, and lozenged A7V's.
greetings, Josh
__________________
"General, you have nobly protected your forts. Keep your sword...to have crossed swords with you has been an honor, sir." General der Infantrie, Otto von Emmich
hello mein liebchens, been off working hard (while others are hardly working). we are back to the task at hand. by now, I have finished the fieldgrey undertone, and did the metalwork in 64 light grey and 87 steel grey. the cab has been mounted but will reqiure some filler to make it seamless. the MG has been painted and fitted. and the track assemblies are begining to be mounted. I wil go over my method of dapple shortly.
"General, you have nobly protected your forts. Keep your sword...to have crossed swords with you has been an honor, sir." General der Infantrie, Otto von Emmich
Now, before we begin our dapple camo scheme; a little super detailing. (See pics attached)
To make these hadlamps I first bent, crimped, and trimmed some hobby wire to make the mountings, then glued them in the corrosponding area on the model.
Lastly using a plug for a 2 cycle engine carburetor, I created the headlights.
Next step with these is to make the lamps themselves anyone have any pointers so we can get this thread going again?
Greetings, Josh
-- Edited by FR73 on Wednesday 23rd of October 2013 04:59:44 AM
"General, you have nobly protected your forts. Keep your sword...to have crossed swords with you has been an honor, sir." General der Infantrie, Otto von Emmich
Well, I found a solution to making headlamps; two part liquid epoxy. I noticed its effects when I swa a chainsaw gas tank sealed with the substance. I accquired some of it for my own uses and think it turned out nicely.
Lastly, you will notice that I added a hand crank, this is verified by some photos, others not. Being this is technically an armored Daimler truck, I decided a crank would be suitable here. This was placed by use of a hand drill.
Next, the Dapple camo was applied. To do this we take a simple tool: pocket tissue. dapple in my opinon should look like a hastilly applied dazzle over field grey. the tissue gives it a ragged up appearance.
lastly the decals go on, and varnish you are done. now all thats left is a base!
Hopfully this has rekindled some interesest in modelling, and I thank you for being paitent.
"General, you have nobly protected your forts. Keep your sword...to have crossed swords with you has been an honor, sir." General der Infantrie, Otto von Emmich
