Landships II

Looks great ....

What about a box "This box should be xx mm long in 1/72" ?

I have seen that box. I just thought it would be a good idea to add a box for people who use metrics.

Great!

sorry about the double upload.  here's "Teddy"

photos of completed model, but without the MG's.  I know there are some things I might want to revise:

a. the shape of the vent hood on the roof.  some photos show this as tapered to front and rear.

b. the left side door needs to be taller

c. some photos and plans show a door in the lower right rear panel.  I have not been able to confirm that this door was on the early model hull.

d. the 75mm gun opening in the front plate

e. there may be more hatches on the roof than the 3 I have now.  comments?

anything else?  any comments or sugestions?  consider this the Beta release <Grin>

On the chars-francais website, photo "saint-chamond-1 x025.jpg" shows what looks like the very top corner of a rear door in the bottom left corner of the pic; it is an early model with the flat roof.

There should be a transverse ventilator running across the top of the main ventilator on the roof, and another pair of hatches either side of the silencer - or certainly there's one on the right side. Ah - there it is, didn't see it!

The bottleneck on the 75 should be closer to the glacis plate - about half as far out as it presently is.

Just checked other photos on chars-francais: there are six hatches on the flat of the roof! Three each side. The plans they have on that site show this, although I was wary of trusting them because the proportions of the tank are wrong.

Apart from that, I'd only say that I hadn't noticed that Teddy was repainted in a different scheme until your model made me check the photos on chars-francais; not sure if there were as many colours though - maybe you've seen better pictures.

Well done, looking forward to the final version.

pix of the latest revision-new gun mantlet, new gun "bottle" and lower slide, right-side door, rear door, roof vents and roof hatches. i'll post the parts and instructions when i get home from work

I would like feedback on "Teddy" before I go on to the late production hull.  I also have started an alternate camouflage as "Fantomas".  Is anyone interested in coloring the whitemodel for other vehicles in the early production series?  if so, I can upload the whitemodel as pdf, corel draw (v5), or paintshop pro.

The whitemodel is attached.  Also a screenshot of the "Fantomas" camouflage in progress.  The photos and color art seem to all be for the left side only.  is there a photo of the right side of this vehicle?

I expect my having the help of a team of young lovelies like those in your photo would strain my wife's sense of humor a bit. <grin>

 

"Fantomas" is on Landships II now.

Regards,

Charlie

Two schemes for "Teddy"!  It is the same vehicle in both schemes, right? ...same vehicle number?  Is the second scheme 2 colors only?  looks like sand or ochre and either brown or green/olive.  My French is a bit scketchy, certainly not up to making an accurate translation. 

 

BTW, I am close to finishing the late hull and Mle 97 gun.   Any volunteers to color one of them?

Here is the late hull St. Chamond with the Mle1897 75mm gun.

I picked a relatively easy camo scheme this time.

Also the white model.

(Charlie - these can go on the models page)

Bonjour,

It's not "Romalho" but "Rimailho". This retired Artillery Colonel was engineer for Saint Chamond Factory

After prototyp model, there is only two models of Saint Chamond :

           - Saint Chamond M1 with flat roof and 75 mm gun Saint Chamond : Tank number 62401 to 62550

                     48 of these tanks was built, in factory, as recovery tank without gun.

           - Saint Chamond M2 with slope roof and 75 mm gun Saint Chamond : Tank number 62551 to 62610

                This models with slope roof was built, and send to the Army, without tank driver cupola on the left front side.

                The tank driver cupola, send by the factory, was installed on this model in Tank Units.

           - Saint Chamond M2 with slope roof and 75 mm gun Model 1897 : Tank number 62611 to 62800

                 Those tanks with slope roof was built, and send to the Army, with tank driver cupola on the left front side

I used to speak, in my topics (on forum Pages 14-18), of "Saint Chamond M3" for the last serie (62611 to 62800).

It's easier for Recognition.

For serial numbers (62551 to 62610) and also some tanks after serial number 62611, it is possible to found photos of the same tank with and without tank driver cupola on the left front side.

Bonne soirée - Michel

-- Edited by Tanker on Wednesday 10th of October 2012 08:14:01 AM

Bonsoir,

About Saint Chamond

http://pages14-18.mesdiscussions.net/pages1418/Pages-d-Histoire-Artillerie/Artillerie-Speciale-chars-d-assaut/artillerie-evolution-fabrications-sujet_1533_1.htm

bonne lecture et bonne soirée - Michel

This is the sort of input I was looking for.  I need to print the article in color and try to translate it to English.  I get the gist of it OK, but I would like to get it all, even the fine points.  There is a lot of great info in the article.

The angles on the bow plates is the most troubling part of this so far.  I wish now that I had better drawings when I started it.  I am attaching a sketch of some critical dimensions for the bow plates.  It would be a great help if someone could measure the vehicle at Saumur and  send me those dimensions.  If the M1 and M2 versions have different bow plate angles it would further help to have both sets of measurements.  This requires major re-work of the cardmodel, so I would prefer to do it only once more...correctly.  A clear copy of the dimensioned side view in the article would also help - I saved a copy of the one on-line but I can't read the text clearly.

If I read the French correctly, the last production run, 62669-62800, had re-arranged (augmented or surblinde) armour, which was news to me.  Re-arranging the vertical plate lines and bolts in the cardmodel is relatively easy, and there can be several versions (like we have with the A7V's).  Likewise the plate joints can have the exterior doubler plates or omit them as required.

I noticed the "Fantomas" bow markings after I made the model.  The bow marking can be added easily.  I also see that some of the "Fantomas" lettering had no white shadow.  Were there two vehicles of the same name, or was this a re-paint?

Making the MG opening smaller (shorter) is easy.  The small circular openings next to them (vision openings or pistol ports?) can be made larger as well - no problem.

Changing the size of the left-hand side door is a minor adjustment, too.

 

I am sure I will have more questions, so bear with me, be patient.

Many thanks for the drawings and the web article,  I am attaching a pdf showing the revised bow of the 3D model.  I have not yet gotten to the other changes.  Comments on the revised bow plates?

Tanker,

 

While re-doing the curves at the ends of the suspension wells, I saw that the suspension units themselves did not really match the photos.

In the attached screen shot, the red is the model as-is.  The blue seems closer to what I see in the photos and some of the more recently-received line drawings.  Do you have any comments or recommendatons?

Bonsoir Wayne,

Here is your measure done on the Saint Chamond, by contact in Saumur's Museum.

A: 63 cm.

B: 108 cm.

C: 96,5 cm.

D: 23,5 cm.

E: 145,5 cm.

F: 205 cm.

A plus - Michel

 

 

 

That's a problem! The Chars-Français site has plenty of photos, and they show clearly that the lower front plate, at the side, slopes at roughly 45 degrees - which means the line drawing is about right for that particular line.

The red overlay looks much too steep there: are you sure you made no mistakes in measuring the new lines? To my eyes the measurements requested look like they would have been extremely awkward to obtain by measuring a vehicle, so they may be incorrect; much better to measure the length of each edge of the tank, then either measure angles with a protractor, or ignore that and use compasses when drawing a plan by hand. Old school perhaps, but more reliable.