Thank You Martin, You've given me a few things to think about. Never thought of chemical colouring the plates. A black/brown colour would be nice, add a bit of wear & tear and I think it would look about right.
One option maybe to find a harder form of aluminium... just found one classified '5754', they use it on tread plates, so a possible.
I can't wait to see one of your Tanks rolling along in bear metal, such a shame to hide all that work... but got to be done.
if you use steel for the plates, you have to take a kind of steel sheet what is deep drawable. It is not much stronger than hard aluminum, but less expensive. Specific weight of alu is a third of steel, but still hard alu will be too soft for a tank in 1/6. Â Anyway, it will nothing be better than steel plates. Â The best way would be, get some material, and try it. The most important thing is that these steel plates will rust, where the paint is rubbed off, and that gives an authentic look. You can press these plates in big bench vice, if you build an equipment for it, or you try to get a stamp press like shown in a photo in my post before.
Helen, if I have read correctly in your other thread, you are thinking of building the Mark I also in 1/16 scale. The track plates on the Mark IV are the same, to my knowledge.
I am still experimenting with brass to achieve the true shape for the track plates but I think I am getting there. Anyway I will be happy to share the outcomings, like the exact shape of the stamp and die with all of you.
Weeks ago I tried to find out which type of steel would be malleable enough but all I can find are odd data sheets which I am not into enough to understand. And then getting it in 0,7 mm thickness seems to be the next limitation.
If this track thing can be solved in a reasonable manner, then hello Mark V, Whippet and Artillery carrier!Â
Steel could also be chemically blackened, phosphorous acid (rust transformer or Coca Cola!) would do that. One could also try it the way they did in the Lincoln factories, carbonize it. Now that would be authentic!
Â
Best regards,
Â
Martin
-- Edited by MRG on Tuesday 4th of November 2014 06:03:35 PM
I've had a look around and yes it gets very confusing when reading up on metal specifications. Basically it looks like standard mild steel is the metal of choice, not to much carbon so it forms easy, but still harder wearing than aluminium.Â
So I've now drawn up a cutting nest for track plates and sent it off to the Laser Cutters. What I have done is ask them for a quote and some advice on the metal side of things.Â
I'm still not sure what to do on the pressing side of things, but I'm thinking along the lines of getting some lumps of metal laser cut to resemble Volker's setup, then seeing about finding someone up to the job of pressing them. Not keen on doing that part myself. Just the size and weight of the presses necessary is enough to put me off.Â
As for the 1/16 scale build, I intend to design some plastic tracks and leave it to the After Market guys or Scratch Builders to make something in metal.
Christmas is coming and I'm getting exited about a box of metal... I need my head testing. Â Just got to get the metal track pads sorted and it will be running time in the New Year.Â
Two boxes of handed track links arrived today. I've had a quick check of of the links, placing them on a 3D printed piece of track plate... rivet holes are spot on! Phew!
There's still some clean up work to do, but I have the scale-ish links I always wanted.... now for the Track Plates.
Ha ha! I worry about you two. Some times I wonder if I'm a little insane... but then I remember it is just the company I keep!
Thanks for the complements guys, it wouldn't have been possible though without finding a metal caster willing to take on small but monotonous job and still do it to such a high quality. I got really lucky.
Oh god don't mention the carpet, it's hard work stopping it looking its age.
Tonights job is cleaning up 200 lefthand & 200 righthand track links. Anyone want to help? Hey come back! Stop running away!!!!! :)
Ok that's it, I'm getting far to excited about bits of metal turning up, I need my head looking at!Â
Todays arrival is the laser cut metal for the track plates. I went with 1.2mm mild steel in the end. The extra weight and possible difficulty in pressing 1.5mm plate put me off going so thick. As it is, each plate weighs very little, but picking up the box of 190 I think it has doubled the weight of the aluminium links.
Along with the track plates I also had some extra metal cut to make the Press up out of. Had an extra pressing blade cut just in case I do something wrong.Â
So getting closer, just have to push hard and get my little tank moving.
Â
Sorry about a few of the photos being blurred.
Thank you Volker  for your post on how you made your track, it has been a great help.
Helen x
Â
-- Edited by MK1 Nut on Friday 16th of January 2015 09:51:52 PM
-- Edited by MK1 Nut on Friday 16th of January 2015 10:01:06 PM
No not finish the Model, but I have succeeded in pressing some track plates... officially over the moon.Â
The plates are 1.2mm mild steel and the first few attempts put up such a fight that had my doubts if I could do it all myself. There's a few little tweaks still needed to get the shape just right, but I'm happy to have a few links to look at and know that it is now just a matter of hard work and time.
No not finish the Model, but I have succeeded in pressing some track plates... officially over the moon.Â
The plates are 1.2mm mild steel and the first few attempts put up such a fight that had my doubts if I could do it all myself. There's a few little tweaks still needed to get the shape just right, but I'm happy to have a few links to look at and know that it is now just a matter of hard work and time.
Helen x
Â
Those look fantastic Helen, well done. You ought to be very proud of your efforts, it just goes to show that having the patience pays off.Â
Well I managed to press 130 track plates this afternoon. Not expected to get the chance today, so glad I managed to knock such a big whole in the 200 I have to do.Â
Had a great day with the guys in the Boat Club at the Fleet Air Arm Museum Model Show yesterday. Although the Tank hasn't progressed much recently, it is always good to chat with the public and other modellers and show off the first few links of track.
Â
-- Edited by MK1 Nut on Monday 23rd of February 2015 04:44:42 PM
Hmmm, a lot of it is done by eye, so hopefully a grabbed image of the cutting plan for the parts and some photos of the final Press will help you finish your Fleet of Landships.
As you may see in the photos I had to move the sheet that holds the Track plates in position back a little, the pressed lip was to close to the rivets.
fantastic, thank you! So you went for the fully shaped stamp and die. That is what I originally had in mind - but with the size I am at, it is difficult to achieve without help of serious precision machinery.
I follow Volker's system with a bit of thinner material pressing into an open shape. Which works once you get the shape of the stamp right, which I am still trying at.
I also encountered the effect with predrilled plates moving while stamping, so I drill the holes after pressing, using the ones in the die as a guide.
What's your system for trimming the overlap? I myself trim both ends after the bolt holes are in, to the exact length in both directions and then cut/file the stamped area along the surface of the die to get it.
fantastic, thank you! So you went for the fully shaped stamp and die. That is what I originally had in mind - but with the size I am at, it is difficult to achieve without help of serious precision machinery.
I follow Volker's system with a bit of thinner material pressing into an open shape. Which works once you get the shape of the stamp right, which I am still trying at.
I also encountered the effect with predrilled plates moving while stamping, so I drill the holes after pressing, using the ones in the die as a guide.
What's your system for trimming the overlap? I myself trim both ends after the bolt holes are in, to the exact length in both directions and then cut/file the stamped area along the surface of the die to get it.
With best regards,
Â
Martin
 Hi Martin,
With the couple of test plates, I used a hand saw... not fun but wanted so much to see what they would look like.Â
The model boat club has a bandsaw and I'm thinking that I will get a nice new blade for that and use some kind of jig to hold the track plates. Another long, long job but starting to see the end now and getting exited.
I did think of using some kind of metal shear but was scared the pressed part might get distorted and ruined. May try it on one of the spare ones though.
The plates I found moved quite consistently and so once I adjusted the thin plate that holds it in place, they all came out the same.
On the shear Vs band saw, have you thought of using a cropper? I think it would work well enough and be a lot more user friendly/safer... try a pair of mole grips with some suitable plates welded on for gripping the track plates with
On the shear Vs band saw, have you thought of using a cropper? I think it would work well enough and be a lot more user friendly/safer... try a pair of mole grips with some suitable plates welded on for gripping the track plates with
 My Dad has also questioned the use of a Bandsaw over using a properly set up set of Shears, it seems to be the way everyone is telling me to go. I have some spare Track Plates to practise and set up on, so will give it a go.Â
The other reason for trying the shearing route, is I will probably kill the Boat Clubs Bandsaw cutting up nearly two hundred bits of metal. :)
The cost of a couple of blades and possibly a new machine has got me thinking of purchasing a bench shear and then donating it to the club when I'm finished as a thank you. It will cetainlt save my ears and my nerves going the shearing route.Â
Hi Helen, just make sure you have a few spares in case of accidents and the cropper/bench shears should do what you want as 1.2mm is not so thick so it shouldn't be a problem, you can also go round curvesÂ
One with 6-8 inch blade should do it, not really a lot to go wrong with a cropper
Glad it all worked out there is a foam sanding drum available from Black and Decker that's useful for cleaning up sheet metal work .. though it does take some practice.. mine is mounted in a half HP bench grinder....Â
I couldn't resist throwing some photos on from yesterday, the quality are a bit poor but they show the Tank with track on one side. :)
With luck I will have some better photos to show you tomorrow when my friends email me them. The other side of track will probably take another week or two. The 3D parts I had printed by Shapeways came out brilliantly and I now have working doors and drivers flaps. It's not just a show off thing, it gives me somewhere to hide switches out of sight.
Wow, it is indeed a beautiful model, once again my congratulations on a superb build !!
I have been following this thread for a while and now you are at this stage I guess in the not too distant future there is a big decision for you to make ; are you going to paint it?
As it stands the finish is superb, clean lines and nice shiny exterior - its almost a shame to cover it, but if you want an accurate model it surely has to be done.......or does it? There is so much discussion about accurate paint shades, how are you going to approach this issue?
Moving on a little, the finish is only half the question, as it is also the decision of 'factory fresh' or 'used and been there' ? We are used to seeing photos of surviving tanks in pristine paintwork, but this is not really how they would have been after a little while in mud, grime, oil and grease. Model makers approach to authentic paintwork varies so much and to varying degrees, but the finish is perhaps everything.
I am sure whatever you decide to do it will be well thought out and well executed as with everything you have done so far.
look forward to seeing more photos when time allows
My intention is to get the model up and running in bare metal for this year, then to paint it over the winter.
To be honest I'm a tortured soul as far as what colour to go for. Probably going to prime the model in grey in the hope it will help me decide. The thing is, I like the grey with Russian Cyrillic's as it tells a story. Then again, I also like the camouflage. One thing for certain is it will most definitely be weathered!
One thing I have noticed when it comes to a really good paint job, is it must have all the oil and rust bits in the right places. I love using paint to give wood and plastic the look of different materials and age.
Last year I built a display model of a Canal Boat for someone. It was all in begged and borrowed bits of wood, with a few 3D printed fitting thrown in. The part I enjoyed most was changing it all to brick and dirt, rough work boat, fancy family cabin, all with paint. I know it's not a tank, more a dolls house in a boat shape, but I will bring the same love to my model MK1 Tank.
Sunday I got to take the MK1 for only its second run at the Southern Model Show in Kent. Other than a few hiccups with flat batteries  I had a good time giving the model a proper run. Tracks starting to rust up nicely.Â
The challenge now is to get the Tail Wheel Assembly ready for the Model show at Bovington next month.