Landships II

Months at least I'm afraid (which is why I've got a 1/35 tadpole still awaiting finishing - I just can't summon up the energy!). What I've done in the past is to take some shaped plasticard (it has a v.small curved trough across it at intervals). Cutting lengthways along the trough (in the middle) and then slicing each strip into track sized sections gives you a series of plates with the apropriate dimensions and a raised bump or lip at one end (much like the real thing) Pieces of card are then glued underneath to simulate the track being raised on rollers. Now for the real tedious bit. Using a simple jig and a v.fine drill bit held in a pin vice I drilled a hole through the plate for each rivet. When the blister on my palm healed I then used appropiate diameter plastic rod to hand make each rivet or bolt (the head is formed by bringing the end of the rod close to a heat source and holding it just long enough so that it  forms a domed rivet or bolt head. This take practice until you can get consistent in size (but the failures go in the spares box for when you need a bolt head of just that size). Once the head is formed the rivet is cut from the rod (I've got a handy mini guillotine) and the process repeated until you loose your mind.  The rivets or bolts are then inserted in the drilled holes and a drop of thin liquid cement fixes them. The individual track plates can then be glued to the model one by one, believe me when you've stopped gibbering the effect is very realistic and when the nice men in the white coats let me have a sharp implement again perhaps I'll make some more.

THERE HAS TO BE A BETTER WAY!

-- Edited by Centurion at 22:22, 2006-07-28

what about cutting the rivets of old tracks and kits and then glueing them on?

Mark Hansen wrote:

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The other way is to make a few links the way Centurion suggested and cast the tracks in resin.

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I've been considering that but can't see how to produce a mould that will provide both the top and bottom of the track (so that the curved and rounded end of the track isn't filled in which would defeat the whole object of producing track plates that sit on the model correctly). If you put the track piece in to the moulding material side ways then the mould produced is too thin and deep to allow either the casting material to fill it with no air pockets and when the cast is set it would be impossible to extract. (I really need to draw a diagram to explain this I think).

One thing I will say and that is each track plate would be best produced as an individual piece and not as a section of track. This gives the most realistic effect when fitted, especially if you are tying to represent a tank that has done a bit of running (so there is individual wear and a bit of movement between track plates) rather than ex factory.

It seems everyone got the same problems,building a good 1/35 ww1 tank !

I also built WW2 German tanks . Of these tanks and crew you can get everything in the aftermarket sector ( I think the underwear of the crewman will be next)

 

But WW1 tanks are forgotten.

The tracks are also my problem.

I recently bought the 26'5 inch tracks for a MKV made by Panzershop.

But these tracks really didn't statisfy me.

Much better then the Emhar but not good enough.

 

4 months ago I won a Ebaq auction with 2 tanks and 3 sets of tracks from Model cellar.

I didn't bid for these tanks (Whippet and male tank)  but was focused on the tracks.

These seems the best tracks ever.Not used them till now but tried to spot for more because I red these tracks are out of production.

Have anyone any experience with these tracks and are these tracks the best to reproduce in resin for example ?

 

Max

 

Is it possible to make the links out of pewter?

If I had the drawings and or a couple of links to go by or both preferably I would certainly consider the challenge.

I have three of the most needed things right now.
Time ,patience and a good supply of pewter.

The only great problem i see is, I live in Canada. Which tells us all right now, shipping will be pricy.

Someone email me the drawings -- and let's see what happens.

old-031@hotmail.com

Thx --Marty

-- Edited by Marty on Monday 8th of November 2010 12:07:49 AM

Thx Chris, had been looking at all you have suggested.

My one problem is I can't seem to get to some of the information.
I get page closed, or not available etc. Or in one case I am to download a program that is 53 MB I think to be able to get the information. Being on dial up internet that would take an eternity as I only have a capability of about 28kbs.

No matter.

I did get the diagrams, and the one took me a while to figure outwhat I was looking at.
(Bit of a brain stall) -- but then it clicked.

Forgive me here Lads as I am not a modeller and really don't work by scale or to scale as such on tis forum.
I work off of information I get from pictures and run from there.
So then -- when you say 1/4 scale, am I understanding correctly that is 1/4 of an inch is equal to one foot?

1/32=1ft.
etc, etc. ?

Also, what is the scale that is most used or most in demand lets say for the MK tank family?

Were the tracks the same through-out as such in pattern?
With the exception of width, and the spuds I think they are called.

I have contemplated for longer than I remember to build one of these in pewter but have always put it off.
Coming across this forum of course has re-kindled those old desires,so basically what I am saying, I am going to have to build tracks sooner or later if I wish to make the molds to cast in pewter a Mother Tank or any other.

I do not know if I can work this "fine" -- but let's face it. If I can make the mold for one track shoe then I can make the mold for 20 or 30 and pour them in one simple shot.

Out of curiosity -- how many track shoes are there say for a Mk-I ?

Lots of questions I know, but here is one more.

If I were able to acheive making an individual track shoe that was "pinable" to join to the next, would the individual modeller want to spend the time assembling his/her own tracks link by link? Or shoe by shoe?

The reason I ask is, if I were succesful and what I made is a "WORKING" piece, I know I would not have the time to assemble linked flexible tracks together for a storm of customers.

Thx for now. --Marty

As an afterthought  -- the hatbadge that is my avitar, I made the mold for that and cast it in pewter.




-- Edited by Marty on Monday 8th of November 2010 04:53:54 AM

Here are some pics of the Model Cellar tank tracks.

These tracks are superb.

Availible for the MKIV/ V /Tadpole/ whippet.

Not cheap but almost perfect.

 

Max

No,they are not 1/72.

 

These tracks are in the scale 1/35.

 

Max

these tracks were availible a few years ago......

But these tracks were hard to find (or order).

Now Model Cellar made a limited re-issue run.

I have completed one  track for the Tadpole MKIV ,wich are 240 pieces.

Now the other.......

One thing I really hate about building tanks are the tracks.

But once glued on the model the tracks are wonderful .

I will send pics when the tracks are complete.Don't expect these pics within 3 weeks.

 

Max

 

Correct,117 links fror each side.

But 1 tracklink are 2 parts and there are 3 spare links.

117+3x2= 240 parts for each side

480 parts to cut and to glue for 1 Tadpole tank.

 

Max